Thanks to Hila and her #burdachallenge2018 I’ve felt really inspired to look into the recent Burdas more deeply and in fact I’ve found lots of good patterns in each of the three 2018 issues out so far.
A case in point is #102 from the January edition (in fact, January has lots of great pattern, I definitely got my money’s worth from this magazine).
As you can see I made this both as a top and as a dress.
For the top, the back is cut as one piece and you can see how a bit of a swayback adjustment might have been in order. The dress carries the waist seam to the back so it’s very easy to do one there at the construction stage without having to fiddle on the pattern pieces. I think the back sits better for it, I might even make it a little larger once I’ve checked the fit after the first wash.
(On a side note, and not wanting to be over-critical or put myself down or anything like that: it’s the third time IN A ROW that I made the mistake of cutting the back pieces without giving any attention to pattern placement and getting some unfortunate repetition. I like to call it a pattern-stutter. I do wonder if I should spare myself the energy of inventing technical terms for my mistakes and rather think about not making them again… Well, I live in hope. Also, my next project is in a solid…)
Both patterns are easy to sew, although not speedy, because you have to baste numerous pleats. But it’s not difficult to do: the knot is formed by linking two pieces and then sewing them to the front of the bodice. then the whole thing is sewn as any normal knit top. No massive geometrical pattern puzzling going on here.
My dress version doesn’t use the Burda pattern pieces for the skirt by the way. I didn’t have enough fabric for that, so I just eyeballed an A-line shape with what fabric I had. I like the result!
Oh yes, Burda don’t specify knits, just stretch fabric. In a knit a zipper is not necessary, but if you do make it in a stretch it might, because in order for the knot to sit properly you need a bit of negative ease. Because it gets quite tight around the tummy area I prefer a stable knit such as a ponte to a lighter knit.
Overall I really love this pattern, probably the dress even more than the top. It is so easy to wear and yet looks a bit more special than a standard knit dress. And the diagonal knot is quite slimming as well, because it draws the eye up and across rather than right across the tummy. Can’t hurt, don’t you think?
I’ve found one annoying bit about this pattern though: with wear, the bodice tends to slip upwards, thus forming a bit of a fabric bubble above the knot, in unfortunate “third boob” position.
It does not only seem to be me, others have had this problem to. This is what it should look like when the bodice is re-adjusted:
It’s not a massive deal, and maybe simply hand- stitching the knot ot the bodice seam will help the bottom of the bodice stay in place. I haven’t tried this yet, but that might be a quick fix.
Overall, another winner for me. I’ve been impressed with Burda for the last few months, so much so that I’m even thinking of re-subscribing. I loved January, one of the best issues of the last few years imho and even the March issued, that on a first thumb-through I decided not to buy, has niggled its way into my conscience and then into my shopping basket – and now I have plans for three patterns from this issue and fabric on the way. So well done, Burda for a great start to 2018!