Some of you might know that Dutch sewing magazine Knipmode have started publishing a German edition this year, which they call Fashion Style. While I can just about work out sewing Dutch, using their patterns with German instructions is of course a lot easier, so I bought a few of their magazines in recent months.
My impression is that they specialize in simpler designs that are wardrobe builders you can wear everyday. I haven’t seen any of the more experimental things Burdastyle sometimes have, but their patterns aren’t quite as obviously utilitarian/art teachery as Ottobre – all in all there is a lot to like, in my opinion.
A case in point is this wrap dress from their September edition.
“I can’t see the dress for the background” I hear you say. You are right, of course, but I’m standing here on the drawbridge of Ingolstadt castle, one of the most historic buildings in Upper Bavaria. So there, now you know.
History lesson over, let’s look at the dress:
One might be forgiven for thinking that this is just a standard wrap dress. Well, let me tell you it isn’t, at least not for me: it is the first wrap dress in the history of mankind (or at least Chris-kind) that stays put all day! I didn’t have to adjust the dress once, didn’t expose myself in any way I didn’t want, I can’t tell you how pleasing this is! Take the other wrap dress I made this year as a contrasting example:
I love the look of this – but I have only worn it twice since I made it in the spring and it is now in my refashion pile because it just gapes and gapes, not matter how tightly I wrap it. So after I have moved once I have to adjust it unless I want everyone to be able to discuss my choice of underwear and that constant fiddling annoys me no end.
I didn’t have enough fabric to make the wider skirt of the original pattern, so I simply added the skirt from the Burda dress above. In the more drapey rayon knit it looks very different, don’t you think?
Many wrap dresses work better on the more well-endowed, because they need something to keep the bodice held taut. Not this one! No wardrobe malfuntion all day, even though I was wearing a slippery slip underneath.
What would a sewing post be without the science bit? So have a look at the insides of the dress:
I really like the way this pattern deals with the problem of attaching facings to the wrap fronts: It doesn’t have any. Rather the wrap fronts fold over on themselves so that the entire center front is doubled and then attached the the side front. In this way there are no problems with finding the right tension for attaching facings and also all seams on the front are nicely enclosed.
You can also see that the shoulders are quite wide. I cut a size 40, according to my measurements (which would be a size 42 in Burda, fyi), but I feel I should have gone down one more size on this. Next time I make this I might cut the pattern witout seam allowances, effectively taking it in by a size or two. Please note, however, that my dress from is suffering from an anorexia problem at the moment (in fact it’s threwn up all the screws that keep the waist setting in place, thus resetting her to the smallest setting) – so waist-wise, those are not my measurements and the dress is not sewn to be as small as that.
The centre front continues to the back to form a little shawl collar. Again, this helps to make the front give more coverage than on most wrap dresses and for me, that makes it so much more wearable.
And finally a rare glimpse of Child 3, who has never been fully behind my “no child photography on the internet” policy. Will there ever be a point in life when pebbles do not magically jump into shoes?