Progress on the Jeans Front?

February is Smarty Pants Months over at the Monthly Stitch and I have been busy trying to improve my jeans fit.

Over Christmas I made my first pair of jeans and I had ended up with this:IMG_6718


There weren’t any major fitting problems, but I still tried to improve on version on. I took loads of measurements, looked at a number of fitting books and websites, got a lot of advice from fellow bloggers about fitting and arrived at the conclusion that I should alter the pattern for full thighs and a protruding seat (I wish they could think of nicer terms…).

So I did the following:

  • add a wedge of 2.5cm in the back crotch via slash and spread to accommodate the protruding seat
  • take out a wedge of 2cm in the front crotch correspondingly
  • add a 1cm wedge to the back inseam to accommodate the full thighs
  • add a little to the thigh line of the outside seam, as with my pear shape my biggest measurement isn’t actually around the hip bone but around the top of the thigh

This is what I got (first fix after basting all seams):



IMG_6831To me, real life looked a lot better than in those pictures. Sad case of wishful thinking? To be honest, I don’t think I have improved anything!

  • Clearly I need to take in the outside seam a little more.The leg is too wide, even though I am going for straight rather than skinny.
  • The crotch isn’t any better, I think I might have added a little too much to the backside, but that should be easy to fix by taking in the seam any more.
  • Those wrinkles under the seat really annoy me, but I have no idea to get rid of them and my fitting books are quite shaky on this issue.
  • The front crotch still has me puzzled. There still is a little too much fabric, so I wonder whether I have to shorten the front crotch more or whether the thighs need more room and that’s what’s causing the ripples in the crotch.

In future I almost think I might continue sew the patterns without alterations other than lengthening the leg. While clearly it’s not perfect it’s as least as good as the efforts of my alterations…


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10 thoughts on “Progress on the Jeans Front?

  1. Chris February 18, 2014 at 11:18 pm Reply

    Reblogged this on The Monthly Stitch and commented:

    My jeans fitting saga goes on – without much improvement, I’m afraid…

  2. Gjeometry February 18, 2014 at 11:31 pm Reply

    I have to say, I don’t think your fit needed improving, I really like the look of your original jeans!

  3. Ramona February 18, 2014 at 11:35 pm Reply

    Have you looked at Pants Fitting Techniques with Sandra Betzina on She addresses a lot of issues in the crotch and the back leg. as well as what to do to adjust for proportions.

    I can’t tell as much about the detail on your first pair, but from what I can see they look great. Based on what I’ve heard from Betzina in the class, I’d say you need more room in the back crotch on the second pair and need to adjust the back upper leg to remove the wrinkles, But I’m no good at explaining it. I tried her technique on a pair of slacks and feel it was an improvement. Still working on perfection. LOL

  4. Rebecca February 19, 2014 at 1:55 am Reply

    I think the first pair looks great! I love the pocket details 🙂 I think maybe the fit is more noticeable in the second pair since they’re light colored. In the second pair I would increase the crotch length in the back, looks a bit tight. I’m taking the jeans class with Angela Wolf on craftsy and she had a great adjustment for the wrinkles under the seat, It’s a hyper-extended calf adjustment. It worked wonders on my jeans. You take out fabric from the thigh only in the back and re- add it under the calf, sounds crazy but it really works!

    • Chris February 19, 2014 at 8:37 am Reply

      That might just be it!! I do have quite round calves, so maybe that’s what’s causing the under-butt-wrinkles. Thanks for the tip!
      I never quite understand why the things that work do work, but I will certainly give it a try. I have two more pieces of fabric dedicated to this pattern 🙂

  5. I made it!! February 19, 2014 at 5:12 am Reply

    I loved the first pair too! Were they comfortable?

    • Chris February 19, 2014 at 8:39 am Reply

      Well, I used non-stretch fabric for no 1 (using a pattern for stretch woven) and they feel quite restrictive. So #2 have a little bit of stretch, they feel much more comfortable. Though, given that I have to take them in a bit, they might end up the same as #1…

      • I made it!! February 20, 2014 at 3:51 am

        Oh boy, all the decisions that have to be made… But you are doing well, I have yet to make myself some pants!

  6. […] to tackle pants. This gave me the chance to work on version 2 of my jeans (version 1 is here). I tried to tweak the fit, with mixed results. Anyway, today I am wearing version 2 for the first […]

  7. […] them to make them straight, like most people who use this pattern seem to do. But then, I have my TNT straight jeans pattern, so I thought I might as well go for the whole Jalie look. I do kinda like it, in fact, although it […]

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