February is Smarty Pants Months over at the Monthly Stitch and I have been busy trying to improve my jeans fit.
Over Christmas I made my first pair of jeans and I had ended up with this:
There weren’t any major fitting problems, but I still tried to improve on version on. I took loads of measurements, looked at a number of fitting books and websites, got a lot of advice from fellow bloggers about fitting and arrived at the conclusion that I should alter the pattern for full thighs and a protruding seat (I wish they could think of nicer terms…).
So I did the following:
- add a wedge of 2.5cm in the back crotch via slash and spread to accommodate the protruding seat
- take out a wedge of 2cm in the front crotch correspondingly
- add a 1cm wedge to the back inseam to accommodate the full thighs
- add a little to the thigh line of the outside seam, as with my pear shape my biggest measurement isn’t actually around the hip bone but around the top of the thigh
This is what I got (first fix after basting all seams):
- Clearly I need to take in the outside seam a little more.The leg is too wide, even though I am going for straight rather than skinny.
- The crotch isn’t any better, I think I might have added a little too much to the backside, but that should be easy to fix by taking in the seam any more.
- Those wrinkles under the seat really annoy me, but I have no idea to get rid of them and my fitting books are quite shaky on this issue.
- The front crotch still has me puzzled. There still is a little too much fabric, so I wonder whether I have to shorten the front crotch more or whether the thighs need more room and that’s what’s causing the ripples in the crotch.
In future I almost think I might continue sew the patterns without alterations other than lengthening the leg. While clearly it’s not perfect it’s as least as good as the efforts of my alterations…