Burdastyle 8/2013 #118: Trouser Fitting Practice

One of my Resewlutions for 2014 was to expand my repertoire of trouser patterns from the one or two patterns that I know I can make fit to add some variation to my trouser wardrobe.
So I started with Burdastyle 8/2013 # 118:


Following my measurements I cut a size 42 (in RTW I wear a size 40) and my first impression was that the leg came up far to wide. It did not result in a bootcut but rather in a wide leg from the top. No big deal, it was very easy to take in the legs along the seams. One thing I really don’t like is the placement of the welt pockets. On me, at least, they come up way too high, so next time I will move them down by a few centimetres.

Otherwise I actually got a decent enough fit on the first attempt. There seems to be some slight fullness in the crotch:


I bought the excellent Sewing Pants that Fit and I wonder if what I need to do is shorten the front crotch:

P1070898The extra fabric on my trousers isn’t as much as pictures in the book, so that might easy to rectify.

The side seams look fine to me:

P1070895It arrives on the floor nicely perpendicular, cross-secting the ankle, so I think I can leave this as it is.

The back view still puzzles me though:

P1070896Do those creases at the upper thigh tell me the seat wants more room? So I would need to adjust for protruding seat:

P1070900Or to they mean I need to let out the back inseam so as to give more room for the thigh? Haven’t quite worked that one out yet.

Otherwise I am encouraged by this first attempt. I am not crazy about the fabric, so this will be a wearable muslin at best, but I have some nice navy wool suiting waiting for the adapted version.

In other sewing news I finished my Georgia dress:

IMG_6790I am planning on wearing this tomorrow, winter or not, so hopefully I will have some good pictures. I can tell you that much: I love love love the dress!


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10 thoughts on “Burdastyle 8/2013 #118: Trouser Fitting Practice

  1. Chris February 7, 2014 at 11:48 pm Reply

    Reblogged this on The Monthly Stitch and commented:

    No rest for Miss Smarty Pants! 🙂

  2. sewbusylizzy February 7, 2014 at 11:57 pm Reply

    Finally! The Georgia appears!!!

  3. Mrs.Smith February 8, 2014 at 12:16 am Reply

    Is the waistband straight or curved? It looks like it doesn’t hug your body like it should. The back looks just a smidge too tight. I’m one that likes minimal ease in my clothes and don’t want everything hanging from my waist or shoulders so…

    I think that you could probably use both – a wedge added to center back and a bit extra added to the crotch point of the back pattern piece.

    When I make pants I need to do both of those and shorten center front (which is also done by taking a wedge). I usually shorten through the zipper portion of the pattern piece.

    • Chris February 8, 2014 at 12:21 am Reply

      Thanks – that is so useful!
      The waistband is curved and it is quite wide and that’s another thing that need a little bit of fiddling. Am I right in assuming that I would do this after the alterations to the main pattern pieces are done?

      • Nakisha February 8, 2014 at 3:23 am

        Yes. Adjusting the waistband fit can be done once the pants fit

  4. donna February 8, 2014 at 2:01 am Reply

    If they were mine, I would open up the side seam from about abdomen level to a few inches past crotch and see if they smooth out with more width there. You dont have balance lines marked on fabric but it looks to me like things r being pulled toward the lower hip at side. good luck! U r pretty darn close!!!

  5. I made it!! February 8, 2014 at 6:35 am Reply

    Oh I haven’t the nerve to try pants yet! Good for you!

  6. Gail February 9, 2014 at 2:31 am Reply

    I think you need more room in the back crotch. Your Georgia dress is looking great.

    • Chris February 9, 2014 at 10:21 pm Reply

      Thanks re the Georgia. But omg re the trouser fitting! I tried all sorts with the back crotch and every single thing I did make it look worse (and I tried opposing things…) Clearly I am a wanderer in the dark…

  7. Calico Stretch February 9, 2014 at 11:46 pm Reply

    Wow the fit is pretty good really straight out of the ‘envelope’. I have the same issues with front crotch and seat fit with my skinnies from last autumn (they’re on hold cos I got irritated lol) and am therefore intrigued.

    I agree with the others about the seat fit and I’m really interested to see whether the suggestions by Mrs Smith work out. I’m going to try it too.

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