Burdastyle 12/2013 # 105: The First Long Then Short Blazer

When I started making #105 out of the December issue of Burdastyle I fully intended to make it a long and oversized blazer as in the magazine:

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But when I first tried it on half way through the making process I didn’t like the length at all, I felt swamped and not stylish at all. What is more, my daughter hated, just HATED it. So who am I to wear a blazer that my 14 year old hates?

So it got chopped off:

IMG_6682aaah, much better already! The double welt pockets are in the wrong place now, they should really sit a bit higher up now, but I am happy to live with this. I will, however, amend the pocket placement on the next version.

IMG_6684I think it looks much better cropped like this, a bit closer to the By Hand London Victoria blazer, which I think is fabulously stylish.

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I added cream lining, just because I could 🙂

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The blazer is meant to have a hook and eye closure, but I only had silver ones in my stash, when I wanted black. So I left off the closure for now – I doubt I am going to wear this closed much anyway:

IMG_6691But that’s what it would look like.

During assembly I used a new technique for setting in the sleeve: Rather than gathering the sleeve before setting it in, you sew a stripe of bias tape to the seam allowance, stretching slightly as you sew. This slightly gathers the sleeve and gives you a sleeve head at the same time.

I half – followed this tutorial from Lolitapatterns. The tutorial calls for the use of tie interfacing for the bias strip, but somehow my husband was not amenable. He said, he wanted to keep all his ties. Shocking lack of cooperation, don’t you think?

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I must admit I didn’t fall in love with the technique on my first attempt. Maybe I did not stretch the bias tape enough, or maybe it was too stiff because I used the fashion fabric rather than a thinner material, but anyway I did not manage to get the sleeve in without a few tucks and creases:

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So a little bit of ripping and re-sewing was in order, nothing drastic, but I need to experiment with this method a little more.

Overall the blazer is a really nice pattern which I am sure I’m going to use again. In fact I already have tentative plan for a spring version using some IKEA fabric.

How about you: Have your thoughts turned to spring sewing yet? Or autumn sewing, as the case may be?

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11 thoughts on “Burdastyle 12/2013 # 105: The First Long Then Short Blazer

  1. Sewingelle January 27, 2014 at 12:59 pm Reply

    Fabulous! I’ve used the bias strip to ease sleeve heads trick too, and liked it.

  2. elaineoc January 27, 2014 at 1:04 pm Reply

    Think you def. made the right choice – this style very easily drowning but it looks fabulous cropped! Also love your sleeves pushed up like that.

  3. Anne W January 27, 2014 at 1:11 pm Reply

    I definitely like the shorter version of this! Much more up to date. I’ve not tried the bias trick with sleeve heads, on jackets i stitch one line of long stitches 2cm from the edge & ease that up until the head of the sleeve looks right, then I pin it into the armhole with parallel pins. It’s a bit complicated to describe here, but it’s called “tipping the sleeve”. it gives a great no-pucker finish.

    • Chris January 27, 2014 at 1:48 pm Reply

      I normally use the tipping-the-sleeve technique as well (and thanks for giving it a name!), but I just thought I should give the bias tape a try. The concept is great, it just didn’t work at that well on the first attempt. But I guess that’s the way with most things first time round.

  4. tigerlounge2000 January 27, 2014 at 1:40 pm Reply

    great job – the short version is very chic, nice call on giving it the chop. I’ve used the bias tape method but Gertie’s way – with a soft and lofty material. Maybe try this version next time? I used a bias strip of cotton flannel and it worked really well.

  5. Nakisha January 27, 2014 at 2:26 pm Reply

    I tried that bias method for sleeve jackets too recently! It works to gather the sleeve beautifully…but I feel it doesn’t allow as much control when stitching because it’s still so stretchy. I can pull on it and smooth the puckers out but then it’s hard to sew and control that. I’m not sure of I’m sold on it as “the way” yet.

    I have a 15 year old and yes, when they’re giving you faces and saying mom, no! you rethink 🙂

    Great jacket. I love the shorter version and the luscious lining!

  6. […] If you want to have a look at what garment received those sleeves, hop on over to my blog. […]

  7. Emma Jayne January 27, 2014 at 6:39 pm Reply

    Wow.. what a great wardrobe staple. Surely tie interfacing can be purchased instead of raiding hubby’s tie rack? no?

    • Chris January 27, 2014 at 6:52 pm Reply

      You are right, there must be a way! However, I don’t even know what to ask for in German… Yes, German IS my first language, just not my first sewing language. I might try with “the stuff you put in ties, you know??!”

  8. I made it!! January 27, 2014 at 11:24 pm Reply

    I’ve kind of gotten into wearing the shorter blazers. Like the collar on your’s!

  9. Gail January 30, 2014 at 9:47 am Reply

    I want a blazer just like this! Lovely work.

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