Just like for mad housewife Lisa, one of my Resewlutions for 2014 was to make my own jeans and I am glad to say it’s mission (partly) accomplished – not just once, but twice!
First up I sewed up my favourite TNT trouser pattern Burdastyle 11/12 #107. But to be honest they have a similar pattern in every other edition, so it was simply a case of which issue I had on hand when I decided to choose a simple trouser pattern.
I must admit would prefer the standard jeans style with a back yoke – somehow that anchors the pockets better. So I will not use this pattern again together with jeans elements such as topstitching.
And the front is plainer. I think I made a mistake is choosing a very stretchy stretch denim for this project, because the trousers really grew after a few hours’ wear, so now I have to rig them up with a belt and really they are too loose for jeans. On the other hand it can’t be that much of a problem, because I have worn and worn and worn these jeans, they are in almost constant rotation 🙂 .
After that I tried my hand on a proper jeans style pattern, Burdastyle 4/2010 #124
This pattern is meant to be for a stretch woven, but I used it with a very stable, very non-stretch corduroy. In order to make up for the lack of stretch I cut a size 42 rather than my normal 40. That kinda worked, but clearly is not an ideal solution. I had to take in the waist by quite a bit, but the top of thigh/saddleback area is still quite tight.
Now, the waist is still looser than I like and because there is a bit of pulling across the thigh, just underneath the zip they never sit as securely as I would like. I’m not so sure about the creases across the crotch: are they a sign of me having done something wrong? Or are they a design feature of jeans? My RTW jeans certainly have the same creases as a feature and so do my daughter’s.
- To be honest, sewing jeans was half as bad as I thought. In fact the only time I got slightly unnerved was when putting on the belt loops on pair 1. I broke three needles on the last loop. While technically I did not have any problems (apart from said belt loop) I found the fitting more difficult than with “normal” trousers. I think because jeans need to be tighter fitting mistakes show more clearly.
What I want to try next is to cut my normal size 40 and make some extra room at the upper thigh area in the side and inseam. I also will try to scoop the crotch curve a bit more so I get a little more room in the back. I hope that in this way I will get the waist shape that fits and only add extra room where I need it. Do you think that will work? I have never actually adjusted a trouser pattern, so I am stumbling around in the dark here 😉
- Also I need to pay closer attention to choosing the right fabric for the pattern. So if the pattern wants stretch fabric, I will use stretch fabric and no questions asked.
So altogether room for improvement, but a positive vibe. I have lots of denim fabrics in my stash, so the jeans sewing fairy has not seen the last of me.