WIP: Burdastyle 12/13 #105 Blazer with Black Lapels

You might know that over at The Monthly Stitch this month’s motto is “New Year = New Skill”. This motto has already seen me make my first ever bound button holes and buoyed by their success (thank you so much to all the lovely lot of you who commented so nicely on my Winter Trench Coat! It’s been a true pleasure to read the comments) I have now tried my hand on double welt pockets. They are meant to go into a dinner jacket style blazer  #105 from December’s Burdastyle. I am making view C with black lapels and the body of the jacket in dark grey wool suiting.

I did the welt pockets first up and am pleased to report that everything went without problems and I did not even have to look at the instructions!

20140114_210724Sorry, black on grey, photographed with artificial light on my tablet is does not great quality photos make, I do realise that…

20140114_210710This, in black on black is the inside before closing the pockets.

And this with everything finished:

20140114_211221You will notice I interfaced the whole front part with fusible interfacing, as per the Burda instructions. I know, the sewing police will give me a stern talking to at the very least for using fusible interfacing (bought off some ebay-seller, to make matters worse) – I am taking my chances on this.

20140114_211931At least those pockets do work! Look, I can take my rotary cutter to a dinner party now. 🙂

What is actually most exciting for me is to see how my skills have moved on within less than a year. Back in the spring I abandoned a skirt because of failed welt pockets and a bit later I produced this:

20140101_165519Yep, gaping welt pockets with the supposedly “fun” lining all over the place. I wore the skirt  ( that I otherwise really like) twice because the pockets annoyed me so much. And do you know what I did? I forgot to interface the stitching line before assembling the welts so the cutting line moved, stretched and shifted. Doooh!! Wouldn’t happen to me now – and at least I know what to do to fix it now!

How about you: Have you got any new skills or techniques that you have fallen in love with?


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5 thoughts on “WIP: Burdastyle 12/13 #105 Blazer with Black Lapels

  1. […] my first double welt pockets with some trepidation, but everything went really well. You can read the making-of on my blog. Hopefully I manage to finish the blazer during January so I can show it here on […]

  2. Ali January 15, 2014 at 12:47 am Reply

    Can’t wait to see the jacket finished – your pockets look fab!!
    Are they more difficult than making a single welt pocket?

  3. Chris January 15, 2014 at 12:57 am Reply

    Ali, I did not think they were more difficult than the single ones. In some ways I preferred them because both ends of the pocket opening have the same weight. By the way: are you joining in the Georgia sew along? I am thinking about it, though normally I only ever sew with Burda patterns, but the Georgia is just soooo nice!

  4. Clipped Curves January 15, 2014 at 12:52 pm Reply

    Your welt pockets are so neat! And good that you’ve recognized your improvement over the months/years. My technique of the moment is edge tape. I read somewhere that stay stitching only stabilises a few mm either side of the stitching and that in sewing the stay stitching you can stretch out the curve. I’ve switched to Vilene edge tape and I’m having much better results attaching facings/linings to necklines.

    • Chris January 15, 2014 at 6:27 pm Reply

      Funny you should say that – I bought 10 m each of black and white edge tape the other day. I have not experimented yet, but that’s another thing I want to try, because I definitely have stretched while staystitching and make everything worse rather than better. Keep us posted on your Vilene successes!

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