What I am Working On: Winter Trench Coat (Burda 2/2008 #114)

For my latest project I decided to push myself out of my comfort zone a little. Normally, my makes are quite fast and simple and go hand in hand with the “not a lot of patience” side of my personality. But now that I managed to lay my hands on a rather delicious cream coloured wool coating fabric I decided to make a trench coat jacket with all the bits and pieces.

Having gone through three years worth of Burdastyle magazines I then decided on a pattern in my oldest issue, 2/2008 – and the last magazine that I looked through, as is so often the way. In true Burda fashion you wouldn’t look twice when you see the model picture:

20131115_123728Honestly, is she obscuring the garment on purpose? Wait, that is still too clear, you can glean some detail on that photo, the Burda people thought. Let’s make a photo that is even less clear and let’s show the coat in black shiny fabric:

20131115_123652I really don’t know what they are thinking (if anything…) when deciding on those pictures. Don’t get me wrong, I love Burda, all the garments I sew are from Burda magazines, and I have only ever made two things from envelope patterns, but the photo choices they make are ridiculous.

Anyway, rant over. I had to get really creative when cutting out, as I had only 2,20 x 135cm instead of the 2,45x 150cms specified.

20131115_123317Not a lot of extra left! The sleeves in the original are 3/4 length, so obviously I had to lengthen those for a winter coat. So the bottom seam allowance on the front and back parts had to go, so the jacket will end up a little bit shorter than normal. I even had to double all the flaps and epaulettes and whatnots that go with a trench coat in lining fabric. That might even be a good thing, as the fashion fabric is very heavy and doubling everything in it might make it too heavy. And my stash has just the right lining anyway.

20131115_173650Still: this is the rest of my fabric after cutting – nothing can go wrong on this make, at least not anything that involves recutting a part!

After hours spent fiddling (but happy fiddling, not stressful fiddling) I made my first ever bound button holes and some very credible welt pockets:

20131116_210404Excuse the horrible pictures – smart phone alert…

There is one thing that always happens and I never know why. There must be some detail I am doing wrong when inserting the inside pockets. When I want to sew them together they never quite match, One is always a little bit higher than the other. You can see on this picture how the top pocket is out of line with the bottom pocket for about 1cm.

20131116_210039

Obviously that is not a massive detail and I can simple cut the pocket a little bit smaller after sewing both parts together. But still: Do you know what I am doing wrong? There must be something fundamental about this type of pockets that I am not getting, because it happens every single time.

Hopefully I will be able to get the coat ready for a first fit. I still need to decide on the lining, so this coat won’t be worn for a little while.

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5 thoughts on “What I am Working On: Winter Trench Coat (Burda 2/2008 #114)

  1. SewingElle November 17, 2013 at 12:31 am Reply

    I don’t know what you are doing wrong with the pockets. I’d like to know too. It happens to me as well.
    I love that pattern. I made it for my daughter a few years ago and I loved sewing every minute, and there were many, of sewing all the great details in that coat.

    • Chris November 18, 2013 at 11:12 pm Reply

      I love the coat you show on pattern review. If I ever get the patience again to make such a coat I will use a light weight fabric like you did. I bet your daughter adores her coat!

  2. cathynd95 November 17, 2013 at 3:06 am Reply

    Is the pocket part to be sewn to oat on the bias? Maybe it is getting stretched a bit when handling.

    • Chris November 17, 2013 at 12:54 pm Reply

      Yes, you are right, It is sewn on the bias, but I tried to take great care with interfacing etc not to stretch anything out of shape. And I have this problem even when inserting pockets in the direction of the grain, so there must be something more fundamental I am doing wrong…

  3. […] usual 140 cm – I only realised when I started cutting…). Some construction details are here and here and […]

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