What I am Working On: Winter Trench Coat (Burda 2/2008 #114)

For my latest project I decided to push myself out of my comfort zone a little. Normally, my makes are quite fast and simple and go hand in hand with the “not a lot of patience” side of my personality. But now that I managed to lay my hands on a rather delicious cream coloured wool coating fabric I decided to make a trench coat jacket with all the bits and pieces.

Having gone through three years worth of Burdastyle magazines I then decided on a pattern in my oldest issue, 2/2008 – and the last magazine that I looked through, as is so often the way. In true Burda fashion you wouldn’t look twice when you see the model picture:

20131115_123728Honestly, is she obscuring the garment on purpose? Wait, that is still too clear, you can glean some detail on that photo, the Burda people thought. Let’s make a photo that is even less clear and let’s show the coat in black shiny fabric:

20131115_123652I really don’t know what they are thinking (if anything…) when deciding on those pictures. Don’t get me wrong, I love Burda, all the garments I sew are from Burda magazines, and I have only ever made two things from envelope patterns, but the photo choices they make are ridiculous.

Anyway, rant over. I had to get really creative when cutting out, as I had only 2,20 x 135cm instead of the 2,45x 150cms specified.

20131115_123317Not a lot of extra left! The sleeves in the original are 3/4 length, so obviously I had to lengthen those for a winter coat. So the bottom seam allowance on the front and back parts had to go, so the jacket will end up a little bit shorter than normal. I even had to double all the flaps and epaulettes and whatnots that go with a trench coat in lining fabric. That might even be a good thing, as the fashion fabric is very heavy and doubling everything in it might make it too heavy. And my stash has just the right lining anyway.

20131115_173650Still: this is the rest of my fabric after cutting – nothing can go wrong on this make, at least not anything that involves recutting a part!

After hours spent fiddling (but happy fiddling, not stressful fiddling) I made my first ever bound button holes and some very credible welt pockets:

20131116_210404Excuse the horrible pictures – smart phone alert…

There is one thing that always happens and I never know why. There must be some detail I am doing wrong when inserting the inside pockets. When I want to sew them together they never quite match, One is always a little bit higher than the other. You can see on this picture how the top pocket is out of line with the bottom pocket for about 1cm.


Obviously that is not a massive detail and I can simple cut the pocket a little bit smaller after sewing both parts together. But still: Do you know what I am doing wrong? There must be something fundamental about this type of pockets that I am not getting, because it happens every single time.

Hopefully I will be able to get the coat ready for a first fit. I still need to decide on the lining, so this coat won’t be worn for a little while.


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5 thoughts on “What I am Working On: Winter Trench Coat (Burda 2/2008 #114)

  1. SewingElle November 17, 2013 at 12:31 am Reply

    I don’t know what you are doing wrong with the pockets. I’d like to know too. It happens to me as well.
    I love that pattern. I made it for my daughter a few years ago and I loved sewing every minute, and there were many, of sewing all the great details in that coat.

    • Chris November 18, 2013 at 11:12 pm Reply

      I love the coat you show on pattern review. If I ever get the patience again to make such a coat I will use a light weight fabric like you did. I bet your daughter adores her coat!

  2. cathynd95 November 17, 2013 at 3:06 am Reply

    Is the pocket part to be sewn to oat on the bias? Maybe it is getting stretched a bit when handling.

    • Chris November 17, 2013 at 12:54 pm Reply

      Yes, you are right, It is sewn on the bias, but I tried to take great care with interfacing etc not to stretch anything out of shape. And I have this problem even when inserting pockets in the direction of the grain, so there must be something more fundamental I am doing wrong…

  3. […] usual 140 cm – I only realised when I started cutting…). Some construction details are here and here and […]

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